Climb cutting is a somewhat controversial technique for routing. It must be done cautiously, with workpieces safely clamped in place or with the router anchored in a router table. For more on how to make a climb cut, see Chapters Six and Seven.
Quick View. Add to Cart. You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Which means that you must fix your workpiece securely onto a bench or other surface. Hold the router firmly until the motor reaches full speed.
When you look down at the top of the router, the motor turns in a clockwise direction. Use that to your advantage, moving from left to right on the edge facing you so that the rotation of the bit will draw the router into the cut.
For routing the perimeter of a piece, work in a counterclockwise direction; when working on an interior cut, drive the machine clockwise. It can cut the groove for the drawer bottom. And it can shape an attractive ogee on the top. For the ultimate in woodworking precision, you can rout each bracket foot to exact shape by running along a template with a top-bearing straight bit. We love the Bosch's beechwood knob handles. The Bosch doesn't roar.
With a sharp carbide bit, that big motor just purrs as the router leaves a gleaming, crisply shaped edge in its wake. It's a wonderful thing to behold, and as power tools go, it's a classic that makes every amateur look good. The biggest mistake novice woodworkers make is advancing the router in the wrong direction. It's easier to practice the correct technique than it is to explain it, but here goes: First, always move the router against the rotation of the bit.
That allows the bit to cut into the work, giving you full control over the tool. If you advance the router in the same direction as the bit's rotation, the router will run along the edge of the workpiece and you'll have to fight to keep control. When looking straight down at the top of a router, the bit rotates in a clockwise direction. That means you should move the router from left to right, but—and this is important—that's only true when the router is positioned in the middle between you and the workpiece.
For example, if you were routing the edges of a board, you'd move the router from left to right across the edge closest to you.
But, when routing the opposite edge, the one farthest away, you'd advance the router from right to left. That's because the workpiece--not the router--is now in the middle. In that position, the router is moving right to left, but it's correctly cutting against the rotation of the bit. One of the best and safest ways to begin routing is to use router bits fitted with ball-bearing pilots. The bearing rides along the edge of the workpiece, effectively keeping the bit on course and in control.
Simply set the depth of cut and you're ready to rout. There's no need to attach an edge guide to the router or straightedge fence to the work. A normal cut is safer in all instances. The tear out that can happen can be eliminated by using a backer board to support the wood at the end of the cut. See this link at Lee-Valley tools for a complete description images are from Lee-Valley.
It has to do with the rotation direction of the bit. You want to go 'against' the rotation with your pass, rather than 'with' the rotation called a climb cut. This pulls the material toward the bit, but can splinter the last section of cut since the bit will be pushing out of the material. There are times when you want to make a climb cut- if you have especially frangible material, you might make a climb cut for the last ", then go back to the other end and start a regular cut- less tear-out at the end.
When you are hand cutting, you push the sharp edge of the cutting tool into the wood so that it makes a cut, you don't drag it along the wood backwards waiting for it to wear down the wood via friction. The same holds true with a power tool. When looked at from the top of the router, the bit will spin clockwise.
In order to push the cutter into the wood when moving around the outside of the picture frame, you would move the tool counter-clockwise. Once you jump to the inside of the frame, in order to keep the cutting edge of the bit pushing into the wood, you want to use the 'other' side of the bit and go clockwise. If you're going the wrong direction, the bit will want to 'run' along the surface, and not cut cleanly into the wood, leaving you with an uneven cut.
When using a router, the bit spins at up to 30, RPM in one direction usually clockwise when holding it bit down. Then if you run the bit in the same direction it is spinning, it will try and 'run away' and can totally mess up your work piece. The reason why you go one way on the outside and the reverse on the inside is you are basically flipping which direction the bit will try to 'run'. There are times when a conventional cut has the potential for less tear out.
If you are routing around the perimeter of an irregular outside shape like a guitar body, both cut directions will need to be used to avoid tear out and the conventional cut being the direction with less potential for tear out in some of the areas. Routing down hill with irregular outside shapes and a final conventional pass works very nicely to avoid tear out.
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